Low Intervention/Natural Wines resented by Leona De Pasquale
This was a very interesting evening, but I’m not sure I’ll be dashing out to buy many of the wines
The history of Low Intervention wines (preferred to Natural wines) is quite fascinating. Historically almost all wines would have been low or no intervention – the Qveri style of Georgia for example. The problem is that if you just pick the grapes, press and ferment and do nothing else, you are very unlikely to get a good product at the end. So over the last few decades we’ve ended up with high intervention wines, with a very long list of additives and processes etc. Interestingly wine makers do not have to put any of this on the label, unlike all other foods. You could argue that many commercial wines are in fact UPFs! So, the Low Intervention wine movement is trying to get back to basics, and do the minimum required to still get a decent wine.
The wines range from close to zero intervention to just a little less intervention than the norm.
The Wines Were – 5 white, 3 red
Sandridge Barton Pinot Rosé Devon - Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier. 9.4%
Sandridge Barton Dart Valley Reserve 2023 Devon - Madeleine Angevine, Bacchus, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc 10.5%
The Sandridge estate specialises in Still wines, not Sparkling, hence the use of historical varieties like Madelaine Angevine. They do like to go for low intervention as much as is sensible and are very into low carbon, high conservation etc. The wines were perfectly fine, but quite pricy – around £18, available from the Vineyard.
Harvest White Diogenes the Dog Puglia, Italy - Manzoni Bianco Chardonnay, Moscato. 12.0%
This has to be as close to zero intervention as we are likely to see. Lots of sediment, unlabelled with a cork stuck in. Available from the Diogenese the Dog Wine bar in south London, decanted from 20 litres containers, imported direct from the Vineyard. Well, it’s wine, but…..
Camí del Drac, Carignan Blanc, Vielles Vignes, 2022 South West France - Carignan Blanc 12.5%
A rare variety, grown high, late picked with a very slow fermentation. Ok-ish
Paros Farming Community Seiradi Monemvasia 2022 Paros, Greece – Monemvasia. 12.8%
Another rare grape variety, grown at high altitude. I rather liked this one.
Harvest Red Diogenes the Dog Puglia, Italy – Montepulciano 12.0%
Another very low intervention wine, but a lot better than the White.
Domaine Capmartin, Pimpant, 2023 Côtes de Gascogne, France - Syrah 50%, Tannat 40%, Grenache 10% - 12.0%
This is Biodynamic/Organic – A Madiran, but IGP not AOC.
Paros Farming Community Seiradi Mandilaria 2024 Paros, Greece – Mandilaria. 12.3%
The most popular wine of the evening. Another relatively rare Indigenous grape.
Note that all these wines are relatively low in Alcohol – this is due to a few things
1) No chaptalisation (added sugar)
2) Everything else. Minimal or Low intervention all through the process. Basically cutting back on all those little steps which are giving us the 14 – 15% wines these days.
